Bypass bliss to Pompey

THE London to Portsmouth road will from this week finally consist entirely of bypasses.
When the Hindhead Tunnel opens on Wednesday car drivers will travel on dual carriageway all the way from Putney Heath to the Portsmouth ferry terminal. Their only inconveniences will be two roundabouts.
The opening means that the London to Portsmouth road has now been completely moved off the route it originally took when it was first designated as the A3 in 1923.
It also means that the A3 now spends all its time avoiding places rather than going to them. The historic towns, whose centres were all pretty near wrecked one way or another by car traffic, are now deviations off the main road rather than stops on it.
Kingston-upon-Thames, Esher, Ripley, Guildford, Godalming, Liphook, Petersfield, and Cosham were all towns that once had thriving businesses based on the through transport of the Portsmouth Road. The various bypasses have restored some of the peace to their centres, but often the historic travellers’ staging posts have been lost.
Now Hindhead joins the list of places saved from the blight of the A3 – and the common and the Devil’s Punchbowl can once again be enjoyed in all their glory.

Private history of a tycoon's mansion

If the Thames Gateway is a thoroughly modern public concept being rather dubiously attached to an excellent history project which seems to lend it some cultural status, then Sutton Place, which I came across on my stroll down the A3, is something of the opposite: a building of immense historical significance which is, and always has been, very private.

The back entrance (pictured above) to the mansion came as something of a surprise to me as I approached Guildford, in Surrey, having walked down from Burnt Common. There is no great house visible from the road, and from a car whizzing by on the A3 up to London it looks like a an impressive gateway with no further clues to what it is about. It is hardly possible to make out the name, Sutton Place, from a passing vehicle. Its history, when I came to look it up, was something of a surprise.

Sutton Place it turned out was, to quote the 20th century architectural oracle Nikolaus Pevsner, “the most important English house of the years after Hampton Court”, or as Wikipedia puts it, Sutton Place “is a Grade I listed Tudor manor house built in 1530 by Sir Richard Weston (d 1541). It is second only in importance to Hampton Court Palace in showing the earliest traces of Italianate renaissance design elements in English architecture.”

I don’t propose here to detail the architectural glories of the place or the estate or go into much of its history. It’s the surprise I’m interested in. At a time when even Buckingham Palace’s State Rooms are occasionally open to the public, when stately mansions all over the country depend on throwing their doors open to the public, and when the National Trust has, for 100 years, been bringing historic buildings into the public eye, it comes as a shock to be reminded that history can be private, no entry, keep out; that so much of history is owned by the wealthy classes and does not come into the public gaze unless the wealthy deign, or are economically squeezed, to place it there.

Sutton Place remains a very private slice of English history, held close by members of the wealthiest echelons of British society. Briefly Sir Richard Weston was an under-treasurer to Henry VIII, who stayed at Sutton in 1533. The house stayed in the Weston family until the end of the 18th century. It later passed on the Salvins, a prominent Durham family, and was for a period rented by the newspaper proprietor Alfred Harmsworth, aka the Daily Mail owner Lord Northcliffe. It was bought in 1918 by the 5th Duke of Sutherland, a Conservative Cabinet minister and Privy Councillor in the Twenties and Thirties, and head of one of the richest land-owning families in Britain. In 1959 the house was sold to oil tycoon and philanthropist Jean Paul Getty, described by Forbes magazine in 1957 as the richest American alive.

In 1976, many society parties and much Getty family drama later, the house was bought by Stanley J Seeger, an American timber and oil heir who, in turn, sold it off in 1986 for about £10million to Fred Koch, an American philanthropist. In 2004 the house was sold to Alisher Usmanov, the Russian based Uzbek billionaire, who owns a large minority shareholding in Arsenal Football Club and an even larger majority shareholding in the Russian industrial conglomerate Metalloinvest. He secretly paid £10million for the house and the surrounding 300 acres of the Sutton Estate. His identity as its owner was not known for three years, when the Sunday Times reported close friend of Usmanov’s as saying: “It’s the only property he owns in Britain and he bought it because it’s a beautiful and unique building which was in a very bad state. He is currently renovating it and wants to restore it to its former splendour.”

Sutton Place, for centuries a home to England’s ruling elite, is now the one of the chosen homes of a man who definitely qualifies for citizenship of what the Sunday Times last week called Richistan - that global superstate of wealthy plutocrats who run the world. And its history remains as private as ever.

Surrey, Ian Nairn and Nikolaus Pevsner, Penguin 1962.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sutton_Place,_Surrey
http://www.jwhistory.org.uk/sutton.html An excellent local history of the area
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/article2652890.ece

Strolling down to Pompey

The opening of the Hindhead tunnel will be the most significant opening of 2011. For roadies and petrolheads it will mean the A3 is dual carriageway all the way from Tibbett’s Corner in Putney to the Dockyard gates in Portsmouth, and that the Hindhead traffic jam, the (very often literally) long-standing bane of Hampshire motorists’ life is finally unblocked. They will justifiably celebrate.

I have no idea how the ecological balance sheet stands for the new Hindhead Tunnel; most new road building seems to fall on the negative side. It will, experts say, be the longest non-estuarial tunnel in the UK so presumably the boring technology must have been pretty cutting edge. It also gives a great chance for Hindhead Common to return to a more natural state, potentially restoring, alongside the Devil’s Punchbowl, one of the most beautiful spots in the south of England.

The development also means that the first A3 London to Portsmouth road will have been, in slightly less than 100 years, almost completely shifted off its original line. The London to Portsmouth road was named as the A3 when the great road numbering system was brought in on April 1, 1923; it then ran through Kingston, Esher, Guildford, Liss, Petersfield and Cosham, and on to Portsea Island. All those towns have since been bypassed, starting with the Kingston bypass opened by then Prime Minister Stanley Baldwin in October 1927.

The old line of the A3, renumbered in various places (the Kingston to Esher road, for example, has become the A307), is now out of main road usage and provides fascinating historical snapshots of road, town and village development over the twentieth century. This road itself is a development of the various old coaching routes and turnpike roads from London to Portsmouth, and the traces of these, now that the A3 is shifted on to its new super speedway line, can hopefully be explored at greater leisure.

Which is how a retired sub-editor with a pencil, a notebook, a camera and an itch to experiment with html - http://www.londona3.co.uk/home.htm - comes to be strolling down to Pompey…